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Or a child on one of those scooters. I saw one nearly get hit in the local town after he rode out in front of a car. Fortunatly the driver managed to stop in time, but would she have then received a red mark for harsh braking if it had been a motability car.
Not even sure they’ll let people argue their care.
Dash cam footage might help, but you’re not allowed to fit them
what car is it look on YouTube and reset it yourself
I hadn’t realised it was possible, thought it was a dealer computer thing. Have already found a YouTube vid thanks
did you reset it yourself it should be pretty easy
Sorted
I’ve owned Citroens for over 20 years and have reset the service light myself what model you got?
It’s a c5x, TBF 1st ever Citroën and been quite impressed. Had a few gremlins occasionally with infotainment stuff but nothing turning off and back on didn’t fix.
Biggest issue is bloody yanky voice and terms like highway instead of motorway and after 3 years have never received OTA update to get civilised voice and Citroën UK customer service is shocking.
Anyway, seen plenty of YouTube vids and websites with instructions to reset. Haven’t had chance to sort yet but looks simple enough.
Would take me two weeks to lose the lease probably, due to a grey haired army (and self-conceited wankers, usually in Deranged Rovers) having the tendency to apparently not see a 5m yacht coming in a roundabout, feeling the urge to end themselves right there and then. With frightening regularity. I can genuinely say that there isn’t a day going by where someone isn’t pulling out right in front of me in a roundabout, despite indicating and driving a huge white whale. The only thing i could do even more to prevent this is driving into a roundabout with the horn taped down, and i bet even then someone just doesn’t care. And yes. Braking harshly to prevent a crash is marked down in the app, since it does in no way, shape or form take other peoples driving into account. Takeaway being, if you’re in the red for a week it may actually be smarter to just crash the car rather than get marked down for a consecutive week, since in that case you can prove that you weren’t at fault – whereas an emergency brake in case of being cut off is actually pretty hard to prove. There already is a way to check whether or not i drive erratically. It’s called No Claims Bonus and points on the license. I have never made a claim, i have never received a speeding nor parking, nor any other kind of ticket. I have never had any kind of points either. Cars we’ve given back usually are “as new” condition, including a paint correction (though i’m getting too old for that nowadays). No marks on the car, no visible scratches, never a dent, never a curb-rashed wheel, nothing. No need for a box to create an issue where there never has been one. That simple. That’s the one step we’ll not accept. Lease prices suck but whatever, mileage reduction sucks but we’ll deal with it – black box? Jog on. Forced us to do the math, turning out the fact that we can get the same car in the higher horsepower version including insurance, tyres and maintenance for less than what we’re paying now, so.. Hey ho.
That’s pretty much exactly what I put – only managed it in a couple of sentences 😀 😀 😀
what car is it look on YouTube and reset it yourself
I hadn’t realised it was possible, thought it was a dealer computer thing.
Have already found a YouTube vid thanks
My plan is to go on live chat tomorrow, if necessary I can do the old screenshot ploy.
Nearest Citroën dealer is a bloody hour away so bit of a ball ache just to get light removed. Probably need to book in for 3 weeks time.
I’ve just noticed that on Skoda website their list of MB cars / prices for Q2 looks pretty much identical as Q1 – definitely for Enyaq. But MB car search is totally different and lists 7 Enyaqs at new prices and some models gone compared to Skoda showing same 10 at same prices as Q1 but shows Q2 on the list.
Ignore that, either I’m going mad or they’ve changed it, I’m sure it showed Q2 earlier today but just looked as was going to post it on here and it’s Jan 1st – Mar 31st
I’ve just noticed that on Skoda website their list of MB cars / prices for Q2 looks pretty much identical as Q1 – definitely for Enyaq.
But MB car search is totally different and lists 7 Enyaqs at new prices and some models gone compared to Skoda showing same 10 at same prices as Q1 but shows Q2 on the list.
I’d happily pay the £230 increase cost for customers if it means they don’t give me one of the tw4tty things.
It would be interesting if figures could be calculated on this forum how many people will leave the scheme that’s the only way to put pressure on Motabilty hit them in the pocket. Also with the elections coming up in Scotland and if Labour get wiped out it may put pressure on the UK government to look at how disabled people are voting.
I could probably live with most of it but as soon as I’m made to have a black box I’m out.
Not going to be told how to drive, not allowed to accelerate, brake or drive over an hour FFS.
Been driving since 17 (before that with my dad on disused aerodrome) and haven’t had an accident since I was 19.
I’d seriously consider leaving if they make black box compulsory for everyone.
I’ve been driving for 47 years, haven’t had an accident since I was 19 in my misspent youth.
I don’t drive like a tw4t but also don’t hang about sometimes.
What constitutes excessive braking or acceleration. Must be better to not brake and hit someone or something that pulls out or sit behind a tractor or beet harvester (plenty of farm machinery in my area) for miles and cause tailbacks.
But worst of all, having to stop every hour FFS. Even my misses doesn’t need wee stops that often. Often go from Norfolk to West Sussex to see family and takes 3 hours (ish) and don’t consider stopping unless we really fancy a coffee and wee stop.
Even though it was a bit more than I’d hoped to spend I’m so glad I ordered my Enyaq 85x sportline maxx in Feb when window opened.
For same money in Q2 now it’s rwd not awd and no maxx pack.
Probably be my last MB car either because of MB themselves or my health which is deteriorating so thought I’d treat myself.
Glad I ordered in Q1.
Enyaq 85x sportline maxx now gone and 85 sportline without maxx is same price.
I know it was pricey but probably my last MB car for health reasons plus MB changes.
EV5 boot dimensions don’t work for me plus put off Kia’s & Hyundai’s for the ICCU failures.
My application window has changed from 3rd Feb to 3rd March in my MB account even though I’ve already placed an order on 5th Feb.
This table has been shared to Motability professional partners. It’s important to note that when you -pick the car up- is important alongside when you -place the application-. It seems easier to read than the /changes customer web page. One important detail (for me at least) that’s missing is the actual cost of the EU travel admin fee.
I’ve just been in contact with MB and told because I have already placed order it is totally irrelevant if my handover date is before or after 1st July, I will be on current terms for this lease. 20k miles, 8 tyres, euro breakdown etc.
Yep, seems fine now but with an expected price hike. Fixed until Aug so no panic ATM
So much for Ofgem caps!
🤣 😂 🤣
Just tried and having no problems getting a quote for Next Drive Smart v5.8 as long as the car or charger is suitable. Maybe try again.
Yep, seems fine now but with an expected price hike. Fixed until Aug so no panic ATM
Really?
We’re currently on the E.ON next drive tariff and haven’t had any communication about changes yet. Hopefully it’s just a temporary pause while things settle.If you’re already in a fixed tariff I can’t see how they can change anything.
I’m still in a fixed single rate tariff but it’ll be ending around the time our EV should arrive so every so often I have been checking what’s about but ATM it’s all gone tits up.
Reply from Kenwood
Thank you for your email. Our dash cams are designed for EV vehicles and having sold huge quantities, we have had no issues in terms of battery drainage. In parking mode (standby) consumption is approximately 9~10mA. During parking mode recording :DRV-A610W + RCA-210 (with rear camera): power consumption is approximately 5.4WPlease note in Parking Mode, the dash cam will only wake up and start recording if it detects vibration/impact, otherwise it will remain in standby.John
To be fair got prompt reply in about an hour, auto reply said up to 5 days.
However; they’re hardly going to say it’s a problem and don’t buy one 😀
Check drawing at botton of page, upto 12.5v selectable ~(Blackview) https://forum.blackvue.com/hc/en-us/articles/49160733840921-Battery-Protection-Features-Low-Voltage-Cutoff
Not sure if I’ve missed your point Kezo. That’s for Blackvue, Thinkware also have facility to set but as previously mentioned Kenwood is fixed. And with the silly MB rule only allowing dealer fit at onset I’m limited to Kenwood.
Think I will try to contact Kenwood to see what they say. Like you already said, 12v would be ridiculous.
I would set at a minimum of 12.2V
That’s the bummer with the Kenwood. It’s set and no facility to adjust it like some other makes.
Hence my concern when they state 12v. Doing some Googling any that are adjustable seem to favour 12.4v
If using the CA-DR1130 hardwire kit, the Kenwood dash cam’s, the batery shouldn’t really go below 12.2V – 12.4V however, Kenwood doesn’t specify the limit, other than simply saying under 12V which of course bizzare and I doubt it would get that low. The G Sensor accelerometer detects sudden movements, such as a vehicle going at sufficient speed past rocking, high winds and of curse if some try to get in the car or on impacts, so if the car is parked on the drive, there should be very few false alarms. No amount of voltage protection will prevent the battery degrading, if left for long periods of time and in its best to unplug it. An OBD or similar solar battery charger connected to pins 4 & 16 (battery power), will keep the battery topped up during the day, as will the small jump start battery packs. The other option is buy your own dash cam and power it from the OBD11 port (Most reputable leads have battery protection built in)
Thanks Kezo
I read on Kenwood site and states 12v. 12.2 – 12.4 makes much more sense. I can live with that. At 12v I thought it’d be asking for trouble especially with an EV where 12v battery issues are quite common.
Wouldn’t be too concerned when at home as there are 3 cameras that overlook our drive (can’t beat a bit of overkill) so can disconnect if leavingforlongerperiods, it’s more for when we’re out and about. Current car got hit while in cinema, one before that hit in B&Q car park and one before that in Tesco’s.
The Tesco and cinema were both in blue badge spaces which beggars belief how 🤔
And, yes it would be with hardwire kit.
Buy an OBD cable to hardwire the camera. It plugs into your OBD port and not your fuse box. It will give it whatever power it needs.
Sorry I don’t understand. I know what the OBD port is but does it then get power from the main ev battery instead of the 12v one?
Where I do have a little doubt over “standard installation” is with cable. Have read that up to 15m is classed as standard and I reckon we’re right on the limit. Also when going underground, this along with distance can cause a voltage drop. The answer is to go for 10mm cable instead of 6mm and assuming they possibly won’t want to do that can I insist and then pay the extra. Think I might even need armoured cable as it’ll be partially underground in the conduit.
Congrats! Ohme will most likely install a small EV charger consumer unit and use Henley blocks to connect to the tails comming from the meter, as is normally best practice and keeps the circuit away from your house consumer unit, which is better for you anyway. However, your money hasn’t been wasted upgrading, as SPD and Type AC RCD? will protect sensitive electronic equipment like TV’s etc. Ohme contractors will use 3 core 6mm2 SWA and run a seperate data cable. Depending on the installation method 6mm2 SWA has a max current of: Clipped direrect – 53 Amps / In free air 56 Amps / Direct ground or ducting 44 Amps Resistance mV/A/m for 6mm² SWA = 7.3 mV/A/m Even accounting for factors i.e installaton method, cable temperature, you will be well within your limits at 15 -20 meters using 6mm2,
Thanks Kezo
We’re currently on the E.ON next drive tariff and haven’t had any communication about changes yet. Hopefully it’s just a temporary pause while things settle.