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My lease ends 29 Sept, my online account says I can place an order from 28 June. From that I assume I should have the letter before or on 28 June.
I’m still on the verge of going EV regardless of it being with Motability or buying my own. The issue for me is I recently had a botched electrical install by a so-called regulated electrician that requires work before the EV charger can go in. I either have to stump up over £600 to sort the bodge out, or let it go through the kwango regulator which could take many months to resolve.
Another option is to buy a small city car, handback my Motability car and forget EV exists – for a while.
This is modern day politics.
The left do it to the right, the right to the left. The centrics to either side, and the far left and right to anyone with a pulse.
Restraint, truth, integrity, and fair play left Westminster decades ago. A vote is priceless, and why mine goes into the bin.
Life is worth much more than an MPs desire to be a someone.
Having not close read any of the documents. I would say that if I had to pay beyond the current pip contribution plus additional costs for insurance, that alone would see me leave. If, on top of that the 20k mileage allowance is dropped below 15k then I will hand the car back the day I pick up a replacement car from outside the scheme.
I may just have well lost, or at least damaged many decades of no claims (my wife definitely will), and sold a reasonably good reliable car when I entered into Motability in 2023.
My thoughts go out to the young lady with a 3 year old blind/deaf child on survives on ongoing medical support that requires regular visits to have feeding pegs changed and physio. She will lose out due to people with low IQs who peddle the free car mantra.
Well done Labour, I hope your MPs never get reoccurring cancer or have a child like above WHILE attempting to work.
I’ve found a solution.
I bought a BMW badge from Temu for £1.24 (inc postage). I will stick it on my motability car and drive around smug in the knowledge that I have a luxury car for Chav money.
When I planned a trip to new York in 2010 my quote for health insurance was around £5,000, as at the time I was under treatment for renal cancer. When I enquired about excluding any claims with regard to my cancer diagnosis and treatment, it went down to a £150.00, now I know this might not be suitable as it depends on health conditions, but is it worth trying,
Ditto. My renal cancer stopped me from seeing family in the states. I don’t travel much these days as I get too tired and am restricted on what I can do. When I could, I had to gamble on getting back home without needing medical treatment.
That’s great advice and means I can plan for a complete revamp. To address the RCD issue will mean a replacement CU regardless (only 6 slots). So, I may as well bring the main board up to date at the same time, and add in the EV. In the meantime, I really need to establish if an intentional or misguided error was made with the RCD choice.
What is the relationship between:
Amendment 2 BS 7671:2018 IET Wiring Regulations (BS 7671:2018+A2:2022)
BS EN IEC 60335-2-40:2024+A11:2024
My heat pump manufacturer appears to be hiding behind the HPA March Guidance. Prior to that, they say it was up to the Electrician to fit the correct type based on BS 7671 (hinting they did not offer guidance)
Does one trump the other, or is it more complex than that?
. Rather than confuse the situation, perhapd we can talk more in depth on the PV side after your HP is mind sorted:-) Using RCBOs do not necessarily require a split board however, due to the DC pressent on both the HP and PV, its recommended the circuits are divided to reduce the risk of tripping from DC lealage. Will work out later the ideal situation for the number of ways likely required and get back to you. P.
Cheers 🙂
Indeed, everything you say makes sense and aligns with the HP and PV manufacturers.
I have now identified the issue.
· My Heat Pump manufacturer states that if an RCD is used it should be either a type F or B (Type B is the preferred option).
· My PV Inverter states the RCD ‘can’ be a Type A or B (because it has Type B RCD on board), however, it requires a 100-300ma RCD due to potential tripping if a 30ma RCD is installed.
From that, I would need a split board or use single pole RCBO’ as you rightly noted. Although I’m unsure (don’t have the knowledge) how many slots that configuration would take up. My second CU is a 6 way Niglon, and they don’t have the extensive range of components like Hager.
Out of curiosity. On page 8 of the guidance document you uploaded, it notes “If Type A is selected for the heat pump circuit, the upstream RCD must be either Type A, or Type F or Type B.”
How does that relate to my heat pump MCB being a C Curve and the RCD being a Type A, does it have any significance with that statement?
Finally. I can still hold the original installer to account if I can show that they fitted a Type A RCD incorrectly. Does Amendment 2 of the BS 7671:2018 IET Wiring Regulations (BS 7671:2018+A2:2022) demonstrate that during early 2025 the electrician should have fitted a Type F or B RCD and not a Type A ?
Let’s not go down the recent debate over Type B High Performance RCDs that function at high-frequency currents. ☹
Well, an EV Charger question has raised concerns over another aspect of an already fraught electrical installation!
My heat pump has a measured DC current leakage of 10ma so should require at least a Type F RCD. The PV inverter I have awaiting installation requires a Type A RCD. They will both co-exist in the same small CU, where from my inexperienced viewpoint cannot see how two RCD’s (Type A and B), SPD, and the three circuits can fit, let alone an EV Charger.
The heat pump manufacturer only published the DC spec and advised a Type F or B RCD this August. Prior to that they were silent on the matter (so I’ve no comeback on the installation company).
I think my EV journey has come to an abrupt halt. I wouldn’t have know any of this without your advice. Now to work on a solution……!
Indeed, I’m well versed with the MCS / Trustmark / NICEIC and many of the other kwangos. I had to deal with them all at some point over the past year!
You prompted me to look at my Heat Pump installation specs, and it clearly states “type A and AC RCD protection are not suitable. ” The one thing I established over the past year from all the legal arguments, is that the manufacturers instructions – assuming they meet the required standards- are sacrosanct and have to be adhered to first and foremost.
So guess what I will be doing this week !
The second CU is for the heat pump which is indeed inverter-driven. From memory (not at home at present), the MCB is a 20 Amp 6kA C Curve. This CU also feeds the garage for some tech gear I work on which is power hungry, and will be also be used for a future 3.5kw PV array (still to be installed).
I was under the impression that a Type A RCD was the minimum you could use (although Type B is the prefered device).
I didn’t have any input in this installation as I wasn’t at home when the work was carried out. It took a year to have the whole installation ripped out and redone after an audit. To this day I am still finding bodge’s to the wiring.
As Motability pay for the EV charger, the extra cost from Ohme may still be much less than paying for my own EV Charger and installation.
The second CU arrangement is Tails > Type A RCD (100/30-A 100 Amp Double Pole 30mA 10kA) > SPD followed by the individual circuit breakers. It also has 4 slots available. So may have been ideal if the 25mm tails had been fitted 🙁 However, as you note, what Ohme say and what the electrician say’s when they’re on site are two different things !
I wont say anymore about the electrician and the 16mm tails except to say ‘they’ no longer benefit from any form of accreditation.
Re the HB, the block /insulation was found to be at fault between the two poles according to the report from the fire investigators. We were watching TV when we heard the cracking and the power dipped in the street. Within 10 minutes their house was ablaze.
Interesting. I had a brief email exchange with Ohme to get an idea of their costs (which they didn’t give). They did, however, indicate the supply would come from the main CU ‘if’ the installer could get a suitable ‘Type B RCD’. The CU is supplied with 25mm tails from a 100amp DNO fuse and has spare capacity for the breaker(s). However, that CU is an F&G concept which is now defunct, although there are plenty of used breakers available, but nothing new that is compatible.
My second CU has no capacity for an EV Charger. The idiot so called ‘Napit and other multiple certified bodies’ sparks he is a member of used 16mm tails when it was expressly stated 25mm to accommodate a future EV Charger. If often draws 30-35 amps in its current state, so a further 32 amps is out of the question (hence it should have been 25mm tails). Changing the tails is out of the question, they were installed into the wall cavity during building work and he clipped them to the inside of the internal wall leaf (seriously !).
So, if there is no way around the issue with the defunct CU, I’m left with a third CU. I have no room for another CU inside the property, so it would have to go outside. Also, I insisted the double pole Henley block the electrician installed was removed and replaced with two single pole units, so space is going to be tight in the meter box for a third set of tails. (Long story, but I’ve witnessed my neighbour’s house go up in flames due to a recently fitted double pole HB failing.
Looking around an IP66 CU fully loaded for an EV Charger is around £40, and an extra 5 metres of SWR isn’t that big a deal. However, trying to establish what Ohme will charge for that is like pulling teeth.
My main CU is no longer made, So you cannot get the correct RCD required. My second CU is on 16mm tails but serves the heat pump and the garage, so would draw close to the 60 amp limit. The run from the CU to the selected charger site could well be 5 metres over the 15m offered.
So I could require a 3rd CU mounted on the outside wall (no room left for another CU in the house). Thus collectively, I need an idea of the cost.
It’s the time differential between ordering the EV car and establishing any cost for the charger install that is the issue. I assume if it all goes belly up and I choose to cancel the EV with a week before the end of my lease, I can keep my current car until I reorder?
I lived around the corner to a family who had a disabled daughter and watched her grow up from the age of 8 till she was in her twenties. Her father always had the most expensive motability car that was on the scheme, be it a Merc or whatever. His daughter never ever went in the car. She was taken to and from hospital, school, and college by taxi.
Her dad used the car for work, pleasure and to go over to Europe with his wife once a month in the motability car whilst the disabled daughter stayed at home.
He would wind up the neighbours no end until three of the residents in the same road (two of them also disabled and on the scheme) put a complaint into motability. Motability said that by going to work every day, his wage was benefiting his daughter (despite her having a job and getting a taxi to work). His holidays were allowed has motability viewed them as rest bite.
I was dragged into the debate despite saying it’s nothing to do with me. In the end I moved as the atmosphere was toxic.
Motability gave me a hire car when the screen cracked on mine. Autoglass can arrange it for you if it is unsafe or illegal to drive.
My local Autoglass is 60 miles away. I live in the back and beyond. I’m surprised there is even a McDonalds out this way.
Otherwise, it will more likely be an EV.
Not all bad news then?!! 😃
I’m still not 100% convinced. More recently, I’ve spent much of my time driving locally or a 200 mile round trip at most. If that carried on then I can see all the positives of going for an EV. However, if my usual pattern of driving returns then it will involve regular trips into Scotland, Cornwall, and Wales from the East Midlands. I still need convincing for that. Also, not sure what our current Gov is going to do with regards to EV owners.
If you don’t get the car serviced motability will send you a reminder to get it done and say if you don’t you are in breach of contract.
Indeed, I just found out my neighbour missed their 1st service and then ignored further reminders due to disability and life issues getting in the way. Motability took the car back for breach of contract.
The warranty also forms part of the resale value after the lease expires. Motability may have clout, but Hyundai are not going to replace a failed engine for free on a 2 year old car with a missed service schedule.
I have now spoken with them and have a service date arranged.
Do not worry about it. It will get done when it gets done. AFIK its only the garage thats worried about servicing the car as they make a lot of money from it. Other members will add to the query as well.
?
I think you’ll find that Hyundai won’t honor the warranty if the service intervals are not met. My question is related to how Motability handle a situation like this.
The links where working yesterday, as I tested them. Now showing error 500. Kwikfit messing about again. My apologies.
None required.
My first thought was Motability / Kwik Fit have closed down open access to the ‘Fleet’ website to stop people checking if a neighbour or friend is in receipt of DLA / PIP.
When the tax disc was removed and replaced by entering the registration of a car via the .Gov website, it would show its class (PLG or Disabled). You may remember that was challenged by various disability organisations as a privacy issue (despite it being on the tax disc it replaced).
It just seemed unusual that one day it was operational, and the next gone. Although as you note, it could be an IT issue with Kwik Fit.
Did I not just say that.
No, you said….
. So use this link in future. https://www.kwik-fit.com/fleet-bookings/start/options
That is the link that does not work.
