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All vehicles have range drops when driven ‘keenly’. Nobody can claim that a 2.5l petrol engine is going to be remotely efficient when driven like it’s race day. The differences are that the range is sufficiently large that you don’t miss the loss after 5 minutes of ‘fun’ and calculating the range or efficiency isn’t straightforward. Not many cars give distance to refuel with any accuracy (regardless of fuel), so you’ve still got to work out efficiency then multiply that by capacity. EVs will give a miles per kWh which is fairly accurate in the main, I honestly can’t remember if the mpg given is remotely comparable. Assuming the newer cars are equally reliable, there’s still a fuel sold in litres with a consumption calculated in gallons to convert. ??
Next time you drive ‘keenly’ keep half an eye on the instant consumption and see how far it drops.
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I agree the losses Summer to Winter are much worse in an EV. That’s not a fantastic selling point, especially when the likes of Stellantis are selling rages from the WLTP tests as if they’re the gospel. The number of complaints I saw about e2008 not delivering anything close to the range they were told is ridiculous. I’d still argue that research needs to be done for all major purchases so that the reality of ownership isn’t a surprise.
There have been numerous faults on the e208. Peugeot put out a statement about the risk of electrical fires, which were believed to be from the 12v battery, however the risk was also apparent when the vehicle was moving or on charge. 21/22
Peugeot later found defects with it BSM (battery management ststem) whch could affect range.
The e208 uses battery packs from LG Chem and CATL. LG has been involved with battery issues that caused massive battery pack recalls, such as those involving the Chevrolet Bolt EV and the Hyundai Kona Electric and Renault ZOE….
We have the Renault Megané etech and it only shows 180 mile range at best in this weather once fully charged so we have to charge every day at the minute, even in good temperatures the range has never shown more than 230 mile range at 100%. The only time the car has shown 278 mile was when we collected it
I paid closer attention to the numbers yesterday after a few drives and 45% of battery used, the average was 3.7m/kWh. As I have a 58kWh battery, the range should be around 214 miles. Air temp has been hovering around 0 degrees.
It doesn’t sound right to me but thems the numbers.
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My Nissan Ariya as dropped about 30miles in the last few weeks. The average consumption is around 3.7kw since picking up the car in January and I expect that will drop because of heating /lighting. I seem to be constantly having to have the windscreen blower on in these damp conditions. It was the same with a MG4 I had as a courtesy’s car. Anybody else have the problem of windows misting up?
No, misting is not a big deal, as long as I keep the air con on and the blower on minimum after the initial blast to heat things up. My 27 mile early morning commute yesterday in -5 temp used 12% of the battery from cold. This morning the same run at 6 deg used 9%. All due to heating. 2.7kw/m vs 3.1kw/m. Car set to 19.5 deg, both seats and steering wheel heat on both days. Range this morning at 90% was 205 miles on the accurate GOM.
Mind you, the Soul’s demist is not as good nor quick as previous ICE cars. Check the cars settings, some cars turn the aircon & heating right down in ECO, the Soul did by default, but it’s customisable, so I changed the ECO default to Normal for air con/heating.
Dropping range is almost all due to heating of the cabin/traction battery. If I turn off the aircon I gain 1 mile of range on the GOM. Turning up the fan speed sees a much larger change. Evey manufacturer, however, is different and some are really not very good in winter (Stellantis) to excellent (Hyundai/Kia).
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No, misting is not a big deal, as long as I keep the air con on and the blower on minimum after the initial blast to heat things up. My 27 mile early morning commute yesterday in -5 temp used 12% of the battery from cold. This morning the same run at 6 deg used 9%. All due to heating. 2.7kw/m vs 3.1kw/m. Car set to 19.5 deg, both seats and steering wheel heat on both days. Range this morning at 90% was 205 miles on the accurate GOM. Mind you, the Soul’s demist is not as good nor quick as previous ICE cars. Check the cars settings, some cars turn the aircon & heating right down in ECO, the Soul did by default, but it’s customisable, so I changed the ECO default to Normal for air con/heating. Dropping range is almost all due to heating of the cabin/traction battery. If I turn off the aircon I gain 1 mile of range on the GOM. Turning up the fan speed sees a much larger change. Evey manufacturer, however, is different and some are really not very good in winter (Stellantis) to excellent (Hyundai/Kia).
after asking the question about the demist problem this morning I thought I might as well ask the questions on a Ariya forum, and quite a few people have said they have same problem. I’ve been told not to run the AC on the recirculating setting in the winter, it’s great in the summer but you need to have it on the fresh air setting in winter.
No, misting is not a big deal, as long as I keep the air con on and the blower on minimum after the initial blast to heat things up. My 27 mile early morning commute yesterday in -5 temp used 12% of the battery from cold. This morning the same run at 6 deg used 9%. All due to heating. 2.7kw/m vs 3.1kw/m. Car set to 19.5 deg, both seats and steering wheel heat on both days. Range this morning at 90% was 205 miles on the accurate GOM. Mind you, the Soul’s demist is not as good nor quick as previous ICE cars. Check the cars settings, some cars turn the aircon & heating right down in ECO, the Soul did by default, but it’s customisable, so I changed the ECO default to Normal for air con/heating. Dropping range is almost all due to heating of the cabin/traction battery. If I turn off the aircon I gain 1 mile of range on the GOM. Turning up the fan speed sees a much larger change. Evey manufacturer, however, is different and some are really not very good in winter (Stellantis) to excellent (Hyundai/Kia).
after asking the question about the demist problem this morning I thought I might as well ask the questions on a Ariya forum, and quite a few people have said they have same problem. I’ve been told not to run the AC on the recirculating setting in the winter, it’s great in the summer but you need to have it on the fresh air setting in winter.
Thats pretty much the same with all cars to be fair. Air con / climate control should be left on permanently, 365 days of the year, and not on recirculation, to keep the car interior dehumidified. This stops windows misting up and prevents driver fatigue (it also stops the air con seals from drying out and shrinking, which causes refrigerant loss and reduces system efficiency). The recirculation mode should only be used for short periods, to stop smoke or heavy fumes from entering the vehicle (or for rapid cooling if the exterior air is extremely hot – almost never in this country). It should always be switched back to normal mode ASAP, or the windows will start to mist and the car becomes stuffy.
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