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There are many settings in cars nowadays so it would be good to know what you’ve tried and how it has worked for you.
This could be setting your car in eco or sport, full or partial regen, how you set your seat position the best way to set your infotainment, sat nav etc basically what’s worked best for you.
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Our car doesn’t have a large range so important to extract as much as possible. So firstly it’s always in max regen which is just the B button and with skill you can use one foot driving particularly as we live rurally, in fact if you look at the brakes they are all shiny and new from total lack of use. When I do local trips we always use eco but once range drops below 80 miles we use normal mode as make minimal mileage gain but drives much smoother and its fun watching sports cars in your rear view mirror as you leave roundabouts etc In a 5.3 metre van. Probably just me
I am the carer / driver for my wife who cannot drive due to disability
Well we don’t own an EV/PHEV (yet), but we did test drive a few, and in each of them we set the regen to “high” as well. Just feels naturally if you’ve ever driven a lorry (engine brake).
Other than that, usually drive in “normal” for steering/throttle settings, all those modes do is just change the steering resistance and the throttle curve, unless you have an adaptive suspension. For most cars, it doesn’t make a difference between “Eco” and “Normal” in terms of fuel economy. The difference is simply pressing the accelerator 1cm instead of 2cm (arbitrary number), there’s no trickery in the background reducing consumption. It just helps to keep a “lighter throttle foot”.
Not sure where the difference in an EV to an ICE car is in terms of sat nav, seating etc.
edit: to prevent arguments, i know that cars are supposed to coast more in eco. It doesn’t make a difference though, at least not in VAG cars with cylinder deactivation.
Prior: SEAT Ateca Xcellence Lux 1.5 TSI DSG MY19, VW Golf GTE PHEV DSG MY23
Current: Hyundai Ioniq 6 Ultimate
Next: we'll see what's available in 2028.
Rene the only thing I would say to that is on Ours (not sure if this is all) but between eco normal and power the bhp from motor is adjusted so you have to weigh up load as too heavy and eco will labour whereas power at full bhp will always consume more so it’s a balance you just find with use. But your quite correct it’s if you learned engine braking except much much smoother
mine is a self charge hybrid and yes eco can help you eke out more but its just as its easier to accelerate slower. i mostly use it in sport as its much nippier
Current Car: Hyundai Kona Premium EV...2 way 40kg hoist
Last Car: Toyota C-HR Excel Hybrid...4 way 80kg hoistRene the only thing I would say to that is on Ours (not sure if this is all) but between eco normal and power the bhp from motor is adjusted so you have to weigh up load as too heavy and eco will labour whereas power at full bhp will always consume more so it’s a balance you just find with use. But your quite correct it’s if you learned engine braking except much much smoother
It appears that indeed, in Eco for some reason Peugeot is reducing torque as well. I find that rather stupid (and potentially dangerous if you’re towing for example) – but you’re right. Although, if you push the pedal down all the way, it “unlocks” full engine power as well.
That being said: it’s wrong to say that full bhp will always consume more. It will not, in an EV. All that matters is the efficiency of the motor, that doesn’t change with output. They probably reduce the torque by restricting max voltage to the motor – something that you can do by being easy on the throttle pedal too, since that’s what your foot controls. So, while you’re correct, it doesn’t actually matter – there’s no difference between restricting torque and adjusting throttle curve. The outcome is exactly the same. Hard for me to explain since english isn’t my mother tongue, but in the end, in an EV you adjust voltage to the motor with the throttle pedal (unlike in a car, where multiple things get adjusted, like air intake etc). Lower voltage = lower torque. Lower throttle (or adjusted throttle curve) = lower voltage = lower torque.
.. does that make sense?
In the end though, even assuming that doesn’t happen (which it does) – i’m not even 100% sure it’d be an upside. I can only go by what people on speakEV say, they don’t observe any gains in range through eco over normal – potentially because you also limit your regeneration that way by coasting more, rather than regenerating. You could make that work, by switching modes constantly (driving eco, then switching to normal for downhill stuff etc), but i’d love to see a spreadsheet of how much (if at all) eco saves over normal.
I’ll certainly be doing that in the GTE once we have it, actually curious/interested. Could only find it for ICE vehicles (and unsurprisingly, doesn’t actually make a difference there for people who drive reasonably) – it certainly could be that i’m mistaken and it’s vastly different in an EV.
Prior: SEAT Ateca Xcellence Lux 1.5 TSI DSG MY19, VW Golf GTE PHEV DSG MY23
Current: Hyundai Ioniq 6 Ultimate
Next: we'll see what's available in 2028.Rene Very interesting and I feel range will be more down to driving method, maybe the modes are more of an encouraging feature for iCE converts with lead feet.
when we got the car we were hoping for 120 in the warm weather and 80 in the cold whereas we can do 130 in warm and more than 100 depending on how cold, obviously we haven’t had extreme cold yet but I still feel preconditioning should produce 100
Between the two cars the Peugeot first and now the Vauxhall we have travelled just over 4 k
The Vauxhall has less of a range because A) everything works on it and
B)I can drive it faster as I don’t feel like I am going to die as we did in the Peugeot
I am the carer / driver for my wife who cannot drive due to disability
I have mine set to Normal Drive mode with regen set to 2 which is the middle setting. If i engage sport mode i set regen to 3, the highest setting to compensate for the added acceleration. In all 3 driver modes i have set the aircon to 20c and top up with the seats and steering wheel if its really cold, the heat pump does a really good job at supplementing the heat. Still getting over 200 miles on a full charge even with the cold weather and i have stopped trying to hit all the eco targets on the dash now, that novelty wore off when i realised its far more fun just to drive it and enjoy it.
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Hyundai Ioniq 6 Ultimate trim
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Loves 3D printing & Plastic model kits
----------------------------I dont have mine yet. its a VW ID3 Tour Pro S 77KWH. my plan is to leave it in sport mode and probably charge up to 80% twice a week. for the pottering around town and what not ill prob stick it into B mode. i have no smart charger or cheap tariff right now but i have still calculated that even achieving an average of 3 miles per kwh i still lower my fuel bill by 55% a month based on the current petrol price at £1.42 and achieving 44mpg in my Honda Civic 1.5 sport plus manual.
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