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The epod supply goes straight into the box however, you’ll be lucky if you get it installed with EVUltra cable, more likely SWA.
The epod supply goes straight into the box however, you’ll be lucky if you get it installed with EVUltra cable, more likely SWA.
I’ve been offered an upgrade to Ultra EV by the installer. A good price as well !
The epod supply goes straight into the box however, you’ll be lucky if you get it installed with EVUltra cable, more likely SWA.
I’ve been offered an upgrade to Ultra EV by the installer. A good price as well !
The benefit of having integrated cat5e cable will be deminished if you get cable cleats and not EV Ultra clips i.e Safe D clips, which are vitually invisable one fitted.
cable cleats
What are the issues I should be aware of using Ultra EV with cleats vs Safe D Clips? I’ve only discussed the SWR to Ultra EV.
Can the Safe D Clips go into mortar joints, and can they be removed easily?
What clip can go into a mortar joints depends on the strengh of mortar joint itself, but both tyes typically fixed to brick. Fixings like Safe D are also fire rated and look neater, as shown hear
I’ve seen the ones you hammer into the mortar joint, or drill a small 5mm hole and insert a wood plug to secure the nail. I was hoping they would use that type as I cannot drill into the brickwork (long story).
Alas, they insist on using some form of cleat, so I may as well stick with SWA and a twisted pair for the CT.
I have fully framed ledge and brace gates with 22mm T&G that weigh a ton hanging of 4 fixings into the mortar joints, so I’m sure a 6m run of 6mm SWA should be fine.
It’s only a temp install as later on all the SWR is going to be taken of the wall and going in the ground, so I don’t want to be left with 6m of brick holes.
Edit: In attached image, can the Ultra EV (not the Cat 5) run along the very bottom of the brickwork like that?
I’ve seen the ones you hammer into the mortar joint, or drill a small 5mm hole and insert a wood plug to secure the nail. I was hoping they would use that type as I cannot drill into the brickwork (long story). Alas, they insist on using some form of cleat, so I may as well stick with SWA and a twisted pair for the CT. I have fully framed ledge and brace gates with 22mm T&G that weigh a ton hanging of 4 fixings into the mortar joints, so I’m sure a 6m run of 6mm SWA should be fine. It’s only a temp install as later on all the SWR is going to be taken of the wall and going in the ground, so I don’t want to be left with 6m of brick holes. Edit: In attached image, can the Ultra EV (not the Cat 5) run along the very bottom of the brickwork like that?
I use a Spit gun (nail gun) if motar is ok however, in your situation, I think its a case of doing your best in a bad situation, once the work is done, you can worry about the trivial yhings.
There no reason why the cable can’t run across botton course as in photo abd its perfectly acceptable to do so, as long as its under the dpc, giving your brother room to work!
There no reason why the cable can’t run across botton course as in photo abd its perfectly acceptable to do so, as long as its under the dpc, giving your brother room to work!
I asked for the cable to go at the bottom and he said no, the cable will get damp ! I assumed he meant the Cat 5, but he said either the SWA or ULtra EV ?
There are different grades of EV Ultra cable ie some are armoured for impact resistance, as cable frequently runs underground, I don’t understand his reasoning with it will get damp and given the conections are made above ground.
The main purpose/benefit of EV Ultra is the cat5 is embedded within the protective sheath with the wires. Using an SWA, the Cat5 is run as a seperate cable and and of an external grade to protect deterioration from UVA and a tougher sheath without going into specs.
The main question is where does the installer want to run the cable in relation to the dpc?
If the remedial work involves chemical injection dpc, the cable has got to run at least 2 full coarses below the existing dpc, giving room to work on the course below dpc to chemically inject a new dpc. Unfortunately, I havent seen the work required or what the insurer will want, leaving your brother the best to ask.
@Kezo I anticipated there could be potential issues with this install as can be seen in my earlier posts. I proposed three options (A, B, and C) for the cable route, all were within the standard installation, and according to my local electrician are nice simple options. The installer choose option E and now wont budge. Route E is unsightly, however, I would accept it if the cable was run along the bottom, not 50 cm from the bottom of the wall running horizontal along its full length. As it turned out, they never had all the correct parts on the van and had to reschedule, so that has given me time to think.
I appreciate they work on tight margins as the work is subcontracted out, but surely the customer as some say?
I compromised, he is now locking down and claiming all my ideas don’t meet regulations. With regards the brickwork issue, the cable can be removed for any access, I’m just trying to avoid any unnecessary holes in the mortar that don’t have to be there.
I’m going to be looking at ICE cars again today. I appreciate I will come under July rules, but it will allow me to move forward.
Does route E happen to be the easiest install route by any chance without putting too much strain on his back?
Whats the full route he is proposing?
My advice is sit and think before rushing out ordering an ice car. The most expensive part of the install to you is the charger, so why not let him have is moment of fame and install it how he wants as a standard install and after get your local electrician run in a new cable. It won’t cost the earth.
The other option is to tell Ohme you want another installer on the basis you lost confidence.
FWIW I install on first course up (75mm) from ground level or the first level course round the building because its generally a neater job, but I’m always happy to oblige if in regs even if it means a different cable type. Unfortunately these guys get pittance in comparison to doing it as private work, so its often a rush and dash job.
Just to add – taking account for the new AP’s and VAT, along with the overall running costs of an EV compared to ice, you could get a local electrician install a better charger, to the way you want it installed and still save what you will pay in extra AP alone!
@Kezo Indeed route E is simple, effective, quick and looks a dogs dinner !
Edit: Recent events suggest my installation might not go ahead, I’m waiting on Ohme’s response. I’ve looked into having a private EV install, but the quotes are all around £1100-1500 which is a significant chunk towards a 3 year old city car. I can’t justify £1100 to try an EV for three years. To replace my current lease car with another similar, the AP would be no more than £399.
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